Milk Paint Product Info
last updated: November 23, 2023
35% OFF our October Color of the Month! Sweet Potato - Sweet Pickins Milk Paint & Pumpkin - Old Fashioned Milk Paint and Farmhouse Finishes Safe Paint
last updated: November 23, 2023
Our Old Fashioned MILK PAINT is a re-creation of the ancient MILK PAINT formula used for centuries before the sale of commercially made paints. It is an authentic finish for use in the restoration of antiques or in the reproduction of antique furniture. It comes in rich colors that are durable and do not fade. Also, since our real MILK PAINT is made from elements that pre-date the use of petrochemicals and other toxic bases and solvents, it is biodegradable, non-toxic, and odor-free when dry. Our MILK PAINT is preferred by custom furniture builders, interior designers, artists, craftsmen, do-it-yourselfers, and those who are sensitive to the need to protect the environment.
Our MILK PAINT is used to achieve an authentic “old look” for furniture, floors, cupboards, woodwork, walls, signs, toys, and stenciling. It penetrates into all clean, porous (unfinished) surfaces. Mixed with our EXTRA-BOND*, it will also adhere to just about any nonporous surface. With a clear topcoat to seal the painted surface, it can be used for furniture subject to fingerprints and spills. For surfaces expected to receive heavier wear, we recommend using a heavy-duty topcoat. An oil or solvent-based sealer is recommended for kitchen cabinets as acrylics may not protect against certain kitchen oils such as grease splatters and olive oil spills. Our MILK PAINT is used by artists and craftsmen to create decorative results that cannot be achieved with other paints. The dead flat, uneven, grainy/mottled look is quite distinctive. Our MILK PAINT is also used for interior walls, floors and woodwork in homes, offices and public areas used by people allergic or otherwise sensitive to chemically based paints.
Bulk sizes are available for volume use and for re-packagers.
Small Amounts: When mixing small containers of the paint by hand it is easiest to make a paste of the powder with some of the water and stir until smooth, like making gravy, using a rubber spatula or paint stick. Then gradually add more water until you reach the desired consistency. It is always recommended to add water to your container 1st and then the powder. This greatly reduces the clumping of powder and makes it easier to mix.
Large Amounts: When mixing up larger amounts it may be easier to mix equal amounts of water and powder together using a wire paint paddle on a drill or similar method, on lowest speed, being careful not to mix too fast which can create foam.
Timing:Mix thoroughly for 2-3 minutes. Then let stand for 10-15 minutes so everything has a chance to disperse completely.
Strain: Sometimes powder lumps don’t fully dissolve. You may want to strain the mixed paint through a paper mesh paint funnel, a piece of cheesecloth, or, better still, a piece of nylon stocking.
Stir: Stir paint every 10 minutes or so while using and add more water if needed to get the proper consistency if the paint thickens.
Best Used Fresh:Milk paint is always best mixed up fresh. If you happen to have leftover paint, or need to wait a day to finish your project you may keep any unused paint in a sealed container in the refrigerator (even plastic wrap held in place with a rubber band is fine). It keeps best if mixed on the thinner side, even with a thin layer of water put on top of the paint mixture. Being true to the original formulas we do not add unnatural preservatives or extenders to our paint and due to its organic nature it can thicken and gel up over time, so it is best to mix up what you plan to use that day if possible. Any unused powder can be stored indefinitely in an airtight container such as a jar.
New wood or other porous surfaces such as masonry.
Note: No primer is necessary – the first coat acts as its own primer on most softwoods and open-grained hardwoods. However, close-grained hardwoods such as maple or birch will require an initial coat of milk paint with Extra-Bond added, as in “B-2” below.
New wallboard and new plaster.
Previously painted or otherwise finished surfaces, any other non-porous surface such as glass, metal, enamel or pre-primed material.
Note: Unless you know the condition of the surfaces beneath previous coats of finish, we do caution you about the use of milk paint over multiple layers of paint that may have been applied without proper cleaning beforehand. Milk paint dries very rapidly and shrinks in all directions while drying. This can pull and tug on the previous layers quite strongly, enough in some cases to cause the weakly bonded underlayers to peel off, thereby creating serious problems. We also do not recommend using milk paint over primer-sealers with stain blockers such as Kilz or Zinsser Bin.
We do not recommend milk paint for exterior use as it will water spot in the rain (except for white paint). However, multiple coats of a clear exterior finish will seal the paint and prevent water spotting. Traditionally, milk paint was made waterproof with the addition of an oil, such as linseed, poppy or peanut oil. We do not recommend this as the oil may still cause problems later with mildew or brittleness of the paint film. And, even with the oil added, the paint may still water spot.
The colors will vary slightly from batch to batch due to minor variations in the natural earth materials. If you wish to change the hues, or make tints of the colors (some are shown on our color chart), start with Snow White and add colors to suit your taste. You can add Pitch Black or Lexington Green to deepen the tone. For example: 6 tbsp. Of Pitch Black to one pint (6 oz. bag) of Lexington Green makes a very accurate early Windsor chair dark green. Any of our colors may be mixed together to create new colors. The best way to develop your “ideal color” is to start with a paper cup and some measuring spoons. Mix your powders together first. Try a tablespoon of a major color and add teaspoons or even fractions of teaspoons of another color. Add a little water and mix well. The color will look darker when wet, so paint the sample on a piece of scrap wood or even cardboard. The first quick test will show you which direction to go from there. Then simply multiply your measurements and make up the needed quantity. If you are going to use a sealer over the paint, try it first on your test piece to check the final color.
We also have our paint available as a translucent “Base” with no pigment for those who wish to start from scratch to create a color using universal tinting colors or other water-soluble (preferably “lime-proof”) pigments.
Decorative finishing, such as graining, marbleizing, sponging, crackling, etc. is an art and not a science. Therefore we cannot stress too strongly the importance of testing every step of your finishing project on scrap or at least on a test area before applying your first coat on your project. For example, if you were going to finish a vertical surface with our Antique Crackle, your test should duplicate this condition so that if a problem such as running and sagging occurs, you will know about it in advance and adjust your brushing technique. Practice and testing cannot be overemphasized. The many books and courses available will help to guide you, but nothing takes the place of practice with small test samples mixed in paper cups.
Just as in Colonial times, and earlier, our milk paint does contain lime, milk protein, clays and earth pigments. We use no lead, no chemical preservatives and no hydrocarbons or other petroleum derivatives. The other ingredients are inert materials. All of our ingredients are food grade or pharmaceutical grade.
Milk paint is non-toxic as it contains no petrochemicals or voc’s. When wet, our paint has a slight earthy milk odor which will disappear in a few hours. The hydrated lime is highly alkaline, naturally anti-bacterial and lowers its alkalinity as it catalyzes with the acidic milk protein. Inert when dry, it can still have anti-bacterial properties depending on the humidity in the area.
Keep the paint powder sealed until ready to use. If it is kept dry and air-tight, it should last indefinitely. If exposed to air or dampness for any period, the active lime becomes inert and turns to chalk. When this happens, the paint won’t mix up properly and if applied can powder off. We recommend storing unused powder in a glass or metal container with a tight lid.
For technical assistance, telephone (435) 255-4556, during normal business hours, 9 – 5 MST, Monday through Wednesday, except on holidays.
Since the use of our products is not under our direct supervision, we cannot guarantee any results of use beyond our control, even though the directions were followed. Neither seller nor manufacturer shall be liable for any injury, loss or damage, direct or consequential, arising out of the use of, or the inability to use, the product.
Before using, user shall determine the suitability of the product for his/her intended use and user assumes all risk and liability whatsoever in connection therewith.
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For over 49 years, The Old-Fashioned Milk Paint Company has been faithfully producing a genuine Milk Paint as close as possible to the old primitive, home-made paint made on the back porch.